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The Gardening Guru's Organic
Lawn Care Manual
THE GRASS IS ALWAYS GREENER.....ORGANIC LAWN CARE
I. History
a). Americans love lawns - its in our blood/genes.
Lawn care is the most popular gardening activity in the country,
outpacing vegetables, flowers, fruit and houseplants. More people
tend lawns than read books, go to movies, or watch sporting events
on TV. There are 5 million acres of HOME lawns in the USA (150
trillion grass plants under cultivation). Americans spend $6
BILLION a year to keep them looking good.
b). A well maintained yard (including lawns) can
add 15% to your home’s value. Lawns help muffle noise, moderate
temperatures, reduce dust and pollen, control erosion, improve
soil, improve air quality by reducing CO2 levels, cushions the
legs, and , though some may disagree, helps keep dirt out of the
home.
c). In Medieval times, lawns were called “flowery
medes”, because short stemmed plants were used more than grasses
(chamomile). One can actually find references to “grassy garden
carpets” back in the Persian Empire, but lawns as we know it is a
more “recent” invention. In Europe, the lawn was born due to
pasturing animals that grazed too close to the home (safety area).
Then the Medieval lawns took on a new form; sod was dug from
pastures, planted on estates, and “mowed” by hand with scythes.
Only the rich could afford this lawn. It wasn’t until the 19th
century that lawns came to most homes. Edward Budding made it
possible with his invention, the lawn mower. He worked in a
textile factory, and in 1830, he watched the blades of the textile
machines cut fabric, and figured the same action could be used to
cut grass. When his 19” wide lawnmower (reel mower) went on the
market, he described mowing as “amusing, useful and healthful for
everyone”, but today, that is not the case.
d). Homeowners apply an estimated 5 to 10 lbs. of
pesticide per acre of lawn per year. This does not sound like a
lot, but figure in that the active ingredient (the actual
pesticide) is .01 to 1% of the product. Some examples;
1). 2,4-d - a common weed killer, was a component
of Agent Orange and is a carcinogen. Other pesticides are just as
dangerous. The good news is that since the mid-1980’s, the tide
has turned on chemical use. I am not trying to tell you not to use
these chemicals, just be responsible.
e). This class will teach you how to be more
responsible and what to look for before it becomes a major
problem. Look at lawn care as grass gardening, and you should
consider your lawn as another plant in your landscape (i.e.. if
you have a weed in your garden, you would pull it. If a tomato has
a disease, you would buy a disease resistant variety). Just as
when you buy a plant, you check the soil, moisture, light
conditions and nutrient needs, you should check into the seed you
are buying (Check the label also).
II. WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR LAWN?
Weeds, diseases, insects are all problems, but more
importantly, they are signs that your lawn’s “system” has broken
down somewhere else. This is where you come in and save the day.
Just as with IPM, you, the homeowner, will have to take time and
look at your lawn and understand what to look for when a problem
arises.
a). Know your soil! - A lawn is only as good as the
soil that is beneath it. Your soil is composed of minerals,
organic material, air and water. Plants and soil have a symbiotic
relationship -- plant roots aerate and break down the soil into
smaller particles, and eventually die, decompose, and add
nutrients back to the soil. The soil provides support for the
plant and nutrients. 1/2 of the bulk of the soil is made up of
space in a good soil. This is comprised of water and air, which
fluctuate during certain times of year.
b). How to tell what soil you have 1). Take a pinch
of soil and roll it between your thumb and forefinger. If it feels
gritty, its a sandy soil; powdery, its a silt soil; hard when dry
and slippery when wet, it a clay soil. 2). Wet a clump and squeeze
it into a lump. Clay will form a long ribbon that will hold
together; sand will not stay together; silt will somewhat hold
together but not form a ribbon. 3). Quart jar method. Put 5 inches
of dry soil in a quart jar, fill with water and shake for two
minutes. Let settle for 24 hours and measure the layers. There
should be three distinct levels - sand at the bottom, silt in the
middle, clay on top. Lets say there is 2” of sand, 2” of silt, and
1” of clay, your soil would be 40% sand, 40% silt, 20% clay, which
is a nice garden loam.
All soils can be improved by the addition of
organic material. Sandy soils will improve their water holding
capacity, while clay soils will improve the aeration of their
soil.
III. WHICH GRASS SHOULD YOU GROW?
As each new gardening year approaches, it seems as
though there are several new varieties per seed type - again, the
educated consumer will win. There is not one “super” grass that
can do everything yet, which means you have to know your
conditions and what types of seed apply themselves to that
condition. The new “hot” grasses of today are turf-type tall
fescues and perennial ryegrasses, but don’t let this fool you. As
much as the new wonder grasses tout they can be the ultimate turf,
conditions still have a major effect on the growth of these
grasses.
RATING THE GRASSES
Texture (listed fine to coarse) - red fescue,
bentgrass, Kentucky blue, perennial ryegrass, turf-type tall
fescue
Nitrogen (listed low to high needs) - red fescue,
tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, bentgrass
Heat Tolerance (listed low to high) - bentgrass,
perennial ryegrass, red fescue, Kentucky blue, tall fescue
Cold Tolerance (listed high to medium) - Kentucky
blue, bentgrass, perennial ryegrass, red fescue, tall fescue
Drought Tolerance (listed high to low) - tall
fescue, red fescue, Kentucky blue, perennial ryegrass, ..........bentgrass
Compacted Soil Tolerance (listed high to low) -
tall fescue, ----- Kentucky blue, perennial ryegrass, red fescue,
bentgrass
Wear Tolerance (listed high to low) -tall fescue,
perennial ryegrass, Kentucky blue, red fescue,----- bentgrass
Establishment Rate (listed fast to slow) -
perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, Kentucky blue, bentgrass, red
fescue
Thatch Production (listed low to high) - tall
fescue, perennial ryegrass, fine fescue, Kentucky blue, bentgrass
Tall Fescue
This grass started out as a pasture grass, that is
a cool season grass that is great for this area. It is adapted to
a wide range of soil conditions, including acid soils with a pH of
5.5 to 6.5 (acid). To seed a new lawn, use 8 lbs. for 1,000 square
feet of lawn area. This will create 13 plants per square inch,
which is a dense planting. Tall fescues do NOT mix well with other
grasses due to its clumping habit. Mow at a height of 2 to 4
inches.
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR;
“Apache” - a lower growing variety with a cutting
height of 1 1/2 to 2 inches. “Clemfine” - a Clemson University
variety that can withstand shade. “Rebel 3D” - Twice as dense with
a narrower leaf, good dark green color. “Falcon” - fine leaf,
dense, will take a pH range of 4.5 to 8 “Mustang” - A Rutgers
hybrid of meadow fescues, tall fescues, and perennial ryegrass (of
the first germ plasm crosses, aka the DNA make-up was exchanged.)
Perennial Ryegrass
This grass also started out as a pasture grass, but
did not make a great lawn grass. At first they were stemmy, coarse
and short-lived, but were found in seed mixtures (prolific seed
producer and seed was inexpensive (filler)). It germinates quickly
and establishes rapidly, so it would get a hold in the soil until
the Kentucky bluegrass established itself. Turf breeders
discovered that some species of ryegrass hosted endophytes, which
are fungi that produce a neurotoxin that caused serious illness in
grazing cattle. The endophytes are passed down through the seed
from generation to generation. These endophytes also protect the
grass plants from sod webworm and other insects. Not only do
ryegrasses fight insects, but are fine-leaved, persistent, deep
green color, improved heat and cold tolerances, take up to 60%
shade, take well to mowing, multiple disease resistant, and still
relatively low priced. Seeding is recommended @ 4 to 8 lbs. per
1000 square feet with a cutting height of 1 1/2 to 2 inches.
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR;
“Allstar” - one of the best bug fighting and
disease resistant cultivars, prefers full sun. “Omega” -
resistance to winter injury ( ryegrasses tend to go limp in
winter, originally one of the major problems of ryegrass, with up
to 40% damage in winter). “Manhattan II” - greater density, dark
green foliage, fine-leaved, shade adaptation, mixes well with
Kentucky bluegrass, germinates in 7 days (a winner!). “Pennant” -
a lower growing variety, so it requires less mowing, but it is
medium for other qualities. “Citation II” - stands up to heavy
traffic and wear, high endophyte levels.
Kentucky Bluegrass - “The King”
For most of the country, nothing makes a better
lawn. It can withstand the heat and drought of the middle south,
the frigid winter of New England and the humidity of the
Northwest. With its fine textured, deep green blades, its
spreading habit and quick sod forming ability, it makes the great
lawns neighbors envy.
The problem is that not all Kentucky Bluegrass is
perfect.....there is quite a difference between varieties. The
cheapest is called common Kentucky Bluegrass, and you will find it
in inexpensive mixtures. It is the offspring of grass selected
from the wild, not much changed from colonial times. Over the
years, breeders bred new varieties selected for their better
qualities. It wasn’t until “Merion” came along in the early
1950’s. It was hailed as a miracle grass because of its resistance
to dreschleria leaf spot and crown rot, two diseases that ravage
common Kentucky Bluegrass, and two minor diseases. “Fylking”, a
late 1950’s Swedish development, was also resistant to leaf rust,
stem rust, crown rot, dollar spot, red thread, fusarium blight and
fusarium patch. Today there are more than 80 varieties that are
tailored to different areas of the country.
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR;
“Adelphi” - Known for maintaining its deep green
color all season long, low growing, and resistant to most
diseases. It is well adapted through most of the country.
“Arboretum” - A tall growing type, well situated for low
maintenance lawns. “Eclipse” - Grows well in the shade and
produces a medium textured turf. It is resistant to a wide range
of diseases. “Glade” - Shade tolerant and disease resistant, but
this one grows quite slowly and requires less mowing. “Merit” -
Dark blue-green color and produces a dense turf, moderately
low-growing, medium to coarse textured, is mainly known for its
seedling vigor. It is a top rated cultivar in Northeast trials.
Fine Leaf Fescues
They have the finest leaves of all grasses, hence
the name. Their upright growth habit creates a high degree of
uniformity for an even-looking lawn. They are the most shade
tolerant of all cool season grasses.
There are three types of fine leaf fescues;
1). Red Fescue - A sod forming grass that spreads
through short rhizomes. It is especially good for cool, humid
regions, acid soils, but does not tolerate moist soils. Some of
the best varieties are; Flyer, Fortress, Pennlawn, Ensylva and
Ruby. They are all resistant to red thread.
2). Chewings Fescue - Similar to red fescue, but it
is a bunch grass with a more erect habit and no rhizomes. It also
stands shade better than most. Some good cultivars are; Agram,
Atlanta, Waldorf, Jamestown and Banner.
3). Hard Fescue - A non-spreading bunch grass, has
a deep green color, but is short-lived. Until lately, it was found
in cheap lawn mixtures, but breeding has made it useful on
infertile soils, low maintenance turf, and in shade. Some good
cultivars are; Aurora, Biljart, Scaldis, Tournament, Reliant and
Waldina.
Bentgrass
Bentgrass is fine textured, sod forming grasses
that are known for putting greens. Twenty years ago they were
thought of as the epitome of grasses, but today they really don’t
belong because of its HIGH MAINTENANCE. To keep them looking good,
you have to mow and water them constantly. All that pampering
leads to diseases, which then calls for fungicides. They don’t mix
well with other grasses because they are so aggressive and force
other grasses out. There are four types of bentgrass;
1). Colonial Bentgrass - Grows in acid soils that
will not support Kentucky Bluegrass. 2). Creeping Bentgrass -
Thrives in poor, wet soils. 3). Velvet Bentgrass - Grows in
infertile soils and will tolerate partial shade. 4). Redtop -
Coarse member of the bentgrass family. It establishes well on poor
and acid soils, but dies under close mowings. It is considered a
temporary grass.
NO-NO Grasses
If you learn nothing else in this class, please
learn this. You get what you pay for. You will find the following
grasses in cheap seed mixtures - STAY AWAY!
1). Annual (Italian) Ryegrass - This one is a bunch
forming grass that the texture is coarse when seeded thinly, fine
when seeded thickly. It is over-used in grass seed mixtures for
it’s ability to quickly germinate. When Winter comes, annual rye
is gone and your lawn is full of holes and you have to begin again
in the Spring ( a waste of time and energy!).
2). Orchard Grass - This is a coarse perennial
bunch grass that will never, ever, ever leave. You will also find
this grass growing in waste areas and roadsides.
3). Timothy - Another coarse bunch grass that will
never, ever leave.
4). Annual Bluegrass - It is an annual bunch grass
that is unattractive in lawns.
Southern Grasses
1). Bermuda grass - A coarse and invasive grass,
considered a weed in some areas. But as with all warm season
grasses, it turns brown in the Winter, which in this area is
October through April.
2). Bahiagrass - Slow growing, coarse grass and
invasive, it forms a thick turf. It is the most shade tolerant of
all southern grasses.
3). Buffalo grass - It is one of the few native
American grasses used for turf. Drought resistant, less mowing,
less fertilizer, but seed is expensive @ over $10 per pound.
4). Centipede grass - Medium to coarse textured,
sod forming (by stolons) that look like centipedes. It grows in
poor soils, with a mature height of 3 to 4 inches. Mow it every 10
to 20 days. Seed is expensive ($15 per pound).
5). Zoysia - Coarse to fine textured, low growing,
spreads by stolons and rhizomes. It is green through the driest of
summers, but browns out by middle of September and doesn’t
green-up again until May. Its’ dense growing habit chokes out
weeds, it takes wear, and does not need frequent mowing.
MADE FOR THE SHADE
Shade is one of the most common problems facing the
lawn owner today. 1/5 of the lawn area growing in the United
States is in some sort of shade. Shady areas tend to be patchy and
weak, invaded by weeds, and infected by diseases. It doesn’t have
to be this way. Many grasses hold their own in up to 70% shade.
The Best In The Shade (Listed in Order)
“Rebel” Tall Fescue “A-34” Kentucky Blue “Reliant”
Hard Fescue “Scaldis” Hard Fescue “Jamestown” Chewings Fescue
“Biljart” Hard Fescue “Banner” Chewings Fescue “Kentucky 31” Tall
Fescue “Pennfine” Perennial Ryegrass “Fortress” Red Fescue
“Nugget” Kentucky Bluegrass “Highlight” Chewings Fescue “Ruby” Red
Fescue “Park” Kentucky Blue “Glade” Kentucky Blue “Linn” Perennial
Ryegrass
Shade Warfare
Shade does more than reduce the amount of light
available for photosynthesis. It can encourage disease, because
the grass stays wet and the air is usually stagnant, and these
conditions usually favor most disease fungi, especially powdery
mildew.
The first thing you can do is to choose disease
resistant varieties. Increase the air flow through the area by
trimming and thinning shrubs. Reduce the shade by trimming lower
branches and thinning upper ones. Since photosynthesis is reduced,
grass in the shade need all the surface area it can get, so mow
1/2 to 1 inch higher than your normal turf. Grass also faces
competition from trees for moisture and nutrients, so increase
fertilizers by 1/2, and deeply water regularly, making sure to
stop watering by 2:00 p.m. so the water has time to evaporate
before sundown.
SHOPPING FOR SEED
When buying grass seed, you get what you pay for.
Fortunately, every package of grass seed has a label, which is
required to contain specific information. It must list the amount
of five things that might be in that bag or box. First, there is
the turfgrass, which is listed in percentage. There may be one or
more species with several varieties of each. The next three are
grouped in a general category of “other ingredients”, which may
include weed seed, inert matter and crop seeds, also listed in
percentages. Finally, noxious weeds, as determined by our state
agriculture department, will be listed seperately, not by
percentage but by numbers per pound.
Noxious Weeds - wild garlic, buckhorn, plantain and
annual bluegrass. A top-quality seed will contain NO noxious
weeds.
Crop Seeds - these can be more troublesome than
noxious weed seed. It can contain seeds such as timothy, rough
bluegrass, orchardgrass and bentgrass. Just 1% of these
contaminants can produce up to 40 plants per square foot, and that
can ruin the look of your lawn. A good seed mix should contain
well below 1% of this.
Inert Matter - This includes chaff, hulls, stones
and such. It will not harm the look of your lawn, but why pay for
something that won’t grow? You want to have less than 3% in you
seed.
Weed Seed - This includes common weed seeds that
are not noxious. There should be none in your seed.
The Turfgrasses - They are listed by descending
order by the percent present in the mixture (also called purity)
and the germination percentage of each. Combining those two
numbers gives you the real value. The real value is a good measure
of the seeds’ quality. To determine the real value, multiply the
percentage of contents by the germination percentage and divide by
100. Example; Let’s say we buy a box of “Merion” grass seed. It is
listed as 90% pure and the germination percentage is 80%. 90 x 80
/100 gives you 72. 72 percent of what is in the box will germinate
to “Merion” bluegrass, with the other 28% being other. To figure
the real value of a mixture (different species) or a blend
(different varieties of a same species), do the same procedure as
above for each seed, add them together and divide and divide by
the number of seed types.
Finally, when buying seed, look for a variety of
names. Buy only named varieties and stay away from mixes that just
list “common Kentucky Bluegrass,”, or “Tall Fescue”. These seed
types will only lead to trouble. Last but not least, when you are
shopping, remember your yards conditions (such as sunny, dry,
moist, etc) and remember which seed types meet those conditions.
OVERSEEDING OR SODDING?
This is one question that you will have to answer
yourself, but I do have an opinion. First, are you starting with
an existing lawn or starting fresh? If it is a new or old lawn,
have the soil checked for nutrient content and pH. This is one of
the major problems with grass not performing the way it should.
Simple soil testing kits can be purchased at your local garden
center or home center. The pH should be in the 6.5 to 7.0 range
for best nutrient availability. Now concerning seeding or sodding,
my opinion is that seeding is better. Why? Because the grass that
you seed is grown in your soil conditions instead of being grown
in optimum conditions, which most of us do not have. Then there is
the watering problem. Since the sod’s roots only go down 1 to 2
inches, it needs constant watering until it is established,
whereas the seed’s roots start traveling downward from germination
and is established quicker than the sod which means less watering.
The sod is also fertilized heavily to get the desired growth and
sale as quickly as possible. If you do not keep up with the
fertilizer, the lawn will be like a drug addict going through
withdraw. I always recommend seeding because it is less expensive
and does better in the long run than sod. Now, if you are
overseeding an existing lawn, there is a rule of thumb; if the
lawn has less than50% turf, you are better removing the old and
starting fresh. If it has more than 50%, overseeding is your
route. The next table will help with your computations.
How much seed do I need? Type of seed lb./1,00sq.ft
Time to germinate Bentgrass 1 to 2 Fast (7 to 12 days) Kentucky
Blue 2 Slow (20 to 28 days) Chewings Fescue 3 to 5 Med. (10 to 21
days) Creeping Fescue 3 to 5 Med. (10 to 21 days) Red Fescue 3 to
4 Med. (10 to 21 days) Tall Fescue 5 to 6 Med. (10 to 21 days)
Perennial Ryegrass 4 to 6 Fast (7 to 14 days)
Before seeding, remove any accumulated leaves and
debris in the area to have a good seed-to-soil contact. After
seeding, ruff the seed into the soil; do not just seed and walk
away. Seed to soil contact is important! The key to seeding is to
never let the soil completely dry out until the turf is 2 inches
tall. Do not water deeply until the turf is established, and do
not mow until it is 2 to 3 inches tall. Perennial ryegrass will be
quick to cover, with 90% being covered in 5 weeks, while bluegrass
can take until the following season to cover well. Be patient and
let nature take its course.
FERTILIZING YOUR LAWN
At the end of a long Winter, most of us are “Green”
deprived. Forget the robins, the first true sign of Spring is a
green lawn, especially if it is yours and not your neighbors! This
causes the first gardener’s phenomenon known as the Spring
suburban fertilizing frenzy. As soon as the first Garden Center
gets its delivery of fertilizer, an almost immediate line of cars
pull in right behind it. They take it home and dump it on their
lawns to be the first ones with a deep, dark green lawn. It works.
The grass blades shoot up and they are such a dark green its
almost blue. But the problem is weeds thrive right along side of
the grass. Diseases strike the overworked grass plants. Lawnmowers
barely have enough time to cool off before the grass needs cutting
again. The worst part is after the lawn comes back to its normal
color, the homeowner rushes back to the Garden Center and buys
more fertilizer to start the cycle all over again. The sad part
this constant fertilizing instruction was coming from “Turf
Experts”. Today the word is enough is enough!
Researchers have now found out that all that
fertilizer is actually harming the lawn instead of helping the
lawn. Studies at the Alabama Polytechnic University shows that 1/2
of all the soluble nitrogen leaches out of the soil before it can
be absorbed by the grass plants. And even the remaining half may
be doing more harm than good. Grass plants are very efficient in
their use of nitrogen, and can even be considered “fuel
efficient”. Babying the lawn by putting all the fertilizer on it
may actually reduce the natural efficiency. The is a ton of
microorganisms in the soil that are harmed when excessive
fertilizer is used, and this can upset the efficiency of the grass
plants. Basically you are growing your lawn to death. The best
lawn I have ever seen was on Crescent Avenue in Ramsey. The
homeowner used 5-10-5 twice a year and the lawn was a beautiful
green color for most of it.
When you fertilize, all the nutrients remain at the
surface area of the soil. The natural tendency for grass is to
have a deep and quite expansive root system. The roots do not have
to travel to find nutrients when it is at the soil surface, and
compaction can occur, and more importantly, in the summer the lawn
will die without excessive watering. Another problem is fertilizer
(non-organic) can actually acidify the soil and kill beneficial
biological processes. A seven year study at the University of
Kentucky showed that increasing fertilizer amounts drastically
decreased the pH. The amazing thing learned was that the lawn that
had the least amount of fertilizer had the lowest levels of
thatch. At the highest levels, there were 65% less earthworms than
at the lower level, which was due to the lower amounts of calcium,
which is important to the earthworms metabolism.
In this class we will address the soil instead of
the topgrowth. A lawn can only be as good as the soil it is
growing in.
Organic fertilizers take time to break down and add
nutrients to the soil. As the break down, they feed the roots and
allow them to produce carbohydrates, which is the energy source in
plants as well as people. The goal of fertilizing is to build up
this reserve of carbohydrates for times of stress, and to keep the
plants growing steadily and healthily during these times.
Lets think about the normal fertilizer application
schedule for one minute. In Spring, they suggest a high nitrogen
fertilizer to get the lawn growing. This high nitrogen application
causes the grass to have spurt growth, and it draws upon its
carbohydrate reserves. The grass gets “hooked”, just like a drug
addict, dependent on more fertilizer. The excessive growth also
draws again on its carbohydrate reserves to help heal its wounds
from the grass cutting. The roots don’t develop as they should, so
when the hot weather comes, they are unable to dig deep for
moisture. During the second application towards Summer, another
high nitrogen application is suggested to continue your lawn to
look its best. This application increases the respiration of the
plants which again reduces the carbohydrate reserves. The grass
weakens. At the end of Summer, you have to reseed and use a fall
fertilizer to get the grass growing. And before you know it, it is
Winter and the lawn goes into this dormant period without adequate
reserves of carbohydrates to get it to Spring. And then the cycle
begins again.
Let’s discuss what the grass plant actually needs.
NITROGEN
Of course nitrogen is still an important nutrient.
It makes the grass blades grow and green up. On the plus side,
nitrogen makes a sturdy rapidly maturing, quick spreading grass,
which in itself fights weeds. On the negative side, excessive
nitrogen causes shoots to grow too fast, making the succulent and
tender, which reduces the ability of the roots to support them.
Over extended grass is susceptible to diseases such as brown
patch, fusarium patch pithier and powdery mildew.
GRASSES NITROGEN NEEDS (lbs. / 1,000 SQ.FT/year)
Type Low High Kentucky Bluegrass 2 3 Fine fescue 1 2 Tall Fescue 1
2 Perennial Ryegrass 2 3
Synthetic fertilizers are here today, gone
tomorrow. There are two forms of nitrogen; water-soluble and
water-insoluble. The solubility determines how fast the nitrogen
becomes available. Water-soluble start breaking down as soon as
they hit the dirt, while water-insoluble takes time to break down
with the help of soil microorganisms. It may sound great that the
nitrogen is readily available, but remember that it is also
leached through the soil just as readily. Chances are that there
is more water-soluble than water-insoluble in the bags of
fertilizer. The three types of water-soluble nitrogens are urea,
which contains 45% nitrogen and is sometimes combined with
formaldehyde (a suspected carcinogen)to create ureaform, and there
is also Ammonium Nitrate, a very strong and very soluble
fertilizer that quickly leaches from your soil.
Organic fertilizers are the best type to use
because the are slow-acting. This type of fertilizer will help
green-up your lawn without the excessive growth. Less growth also
means less watering and less fertilizer in the long run. They are
moderate in nitrogen content, neutral pH and water-insoluble -
just like the lawn likes it. They are usually lower in nitrogen
than synthetic fertilizers and may be more expensive, pound per
pound in the short run. The idea is that since 1/2 the synthetic
nitrogen is loss to leaching, you are closer to being price
competitive than you think. There are many organic fertilizers on
the market today, so take your time and look at the back panel of
the fertilizer bags to make sure.
CALCULATING THE POUNDS/1,000 SQ.FT.
The numbers on the fertilizer bag explains it all.
Lets take for example a 50 LB. bag of a 5-10-5 fertilizer. The
numbers are the actual pounds per 100 pounds of fertilizer. Also
lets say that the 50 LB bag covers 5,000 square feet. There is 2.5
lbs. of nitrogen in the 50 lb. bag. Divide the 2.5 by the SQ.FT.
and times by 1000(2.5/5000=.0005x1000=.5 pounds) If your grass
type needs 2 lbs. per 1000sq.ft., you would need to apply this 4
times a year, or buy a 10-10-10, etc
THE FORGOTTEN FIVE
The other five macronutrients - phosphorous,
potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur - don’t get as much
attention as nitrogen, but they are just as important. If you have
used a high-nitrogen fertilizer in the past, there may be an
imbalance in the soil. The best thing you can do is have your soil
tested for pH and nutrients. This will not only tell you if you
have a deficiency, but will also tell you how much of each
nutrient to add to you soil. Phosphorous Phosphorous works behind
the scenes and in the soil. It helps seed to germinate and to
establish itself quickly and strongly. For established turf it
aids in root growth. Phosphorous is present in every plant cell,
where it is used to transform other elements into energy. To
maintain adequate supplies of phosphorous in the soil, you need to
add only 1/2 pound per 1,000 square feet per year. That can be
provided with 5 pounds of bone meal, or you can use fish emulsion,
cottonseed meal, or milorganite. Potassium Potassium doesn’t show
up in color, growth or density, but has been shown to “toughen”
the turf. It makes grass more resistant to heat, cold, drought,
disease and traffic. The normal rate per year is 1 to 2 pounds per
1,00 square feet. A good source of potassium is wood ash, but that
is not something you can put on your lawn, considering you would
need 10 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Calcium, Magnesium and
Sulfur Calcium helps by improving the uptake of nitrogen and
increasing the growth of root hairs. It is also necessary for cell
division within the plant. You can provide calcium by applying
dolomitic limestone, which will also supply Magnesium. Magnesium
is a component of chlorophyll that plays an important part in
photosynthesis and helps absorb phosphorous. Sulfur is a nutrient
you shouldn’t have to worry about unless you have been using the
high-nitrogen fertilizer. Sulfur improves the grass color,
increases carbohydrate reserves, contribute to cold tolerance,
protein synthesis and new growth. Powdery mildew is more prevalent
when sulfur is low.
Micronutrients Iron Iron improves fall and winter
color, enhances root development, reduces the effects of stress,
and is essential for the formation of chlorophyll. Excessive
phosphorous creates an iron deficiency. Milorganite is a good
source of iron. Manganese Manganese activates the photosynthesis
process. Soils that have a high pH (7.5 or above) are usually
deficient in this. Zinc, Copper, Boron and Molybdenum These are
needed in minute quantities and if not applied properly, can cause
the lawn more harm than being deficient. Check the fertilizer bag
to see if these are included.
SWEET OR SOUR SOIL?
When the soil pH raises higher than 7.5, it can
lead to deficiencies in the above mentioned micronutrients. If it
goes below 6.0, the availability of phosphorous is greatly
reduced, and calcium and magnesium are depleted. Nutrient
availability is best when the pH is between 6.0 to 7.0. At a
higher or lower rate, microorganism activity slows or even stops,
reducing the breakdown of organic matter and the consequential
release of nitrogen, sulfur and other nutrients. You can put all
the fertilizer on that you can, but it will never reach the grass
plants To raise pH (Pounds of limestone needed per 1,000 SQ.FT. to
raise pH to 6.5 in each soil type)
Soil pH Sand Loam Clay 4.5 50 135 195 5.0 40 105
155 5.5 30 80 110 6.0 15 40 55
To lower pH (Pounds of sulfur needed per 1,000
SQ.FT. to lower pH to 6.5 in two soil types)
Soil pH Sand Clay 8.5 45 70 8.0 30 45 7.5 10 20
Using a Spreader
Although you can spread fertilizer by the handful,
it is much easier and more precise to use a spreader. There are
two different types on the market; broadcast and drop spreaders. A
drop spreader is the most precise spreader available. This can be
a benefit because you are applying fertilizer to specific areas,
but can be a problem if you are not precise in following the wheel
pattern. I call this effect a “football field” effect, where there
are stripes in the lawn greener than the ones next to them. A
broadcast spreader is not a precise, but it is meant to overlap
each pass. Most of these cover a 6 to 8 foot swath on each pass.
The label on the fertilizer you use will tell you the settings for
your specific spreader, or you can mark off an area 1,000 square
feet, set your spreader to a certain number. Cover the area (one
path each until covered), replace the leftover fertilizer into the
bag and weigh the bag. This will give you the pounds per thousand
SQ.FT. of fertilizer USED. Then go back to the calculation used
previously to figure the pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 SQ.FT.
THE ART OF MOWING
Mowing is the most important thing you can do to
your lawn. It can be the most beneficial or the most harmful. If
you are an average homeowner, you spend 40hours a year if not more
behind your lawnmower. Chances are your technique falls under two
categories; the cut it each week at the same time in the same way,
or the I mow it when it starts looking like a Savannah and you
start losing things and people in it. A rigid mowing schedule does
not suit the grass at all. Saturday does not mean its time to cut
the grass. Grass grows at different rates at different times per
year. Several factors should influence your mowing decision;
water, heat, fertilizer, disease, dormancy and seasonality.
Properly done, mowing can kill weeds, cure diseases, save water
and provide fertilizer. Spend a little time figuring out the best
schedule for your mowing and you will save yourself a lot of work
later on in the season. At different times during the year, you
will have to raise or lower your cutting height. Sometimes you may
have to cut twice per week, while at other times you will only mow
twice a month. To understand lawn mowing, it helps to know how
grass plants grow. Grasses are basal growing crops. That’s why you
can cut off their tops without killing them. The growing point is
at the crown of the plant, near the soil line. The tips of the
blades are not the youngest, but are the oldest part of the blade.
Cut them off and the new growth pushes up from the crown, not from
the top.
The good and bad of mowing
When the mower cuts of those tips, the plant
undergoes a lot of changes. Mowing is the violent, physical
removal of living tissue, causing a severe shock to the plant
itself. The shock is due to the reduction of the food available to
the plant. Grass lives mostly on the food produced in the leaves
rather than drawn up by the roots. The leaf areas are where the
plant’s photosynthesis takes place. Cut those blades and you
reduce the availability of the plant to produce food. The food
manufactured by the leaves is used for topgrowth and root growth.
The longer the topgrowth, the longer the root growth. If you cut
your lawn short, your roots will only be by the surface area and
not down deep where the nutrients and water are. When you cut more
than 40% of the leaf surface, the roots stop growing all together.
The closer you cut, the longer it takes for the roots to begin
growing again. Also, every time you cut the grass (especially if
the lawn mower blade is dull), you are creating ports of entry for
diseases. Close cutting also allows the sunlight to penetrate the
soil and dry out the soil while encouraging weed seeds to
germinate. These are the bad things that happen when mowing. When
properly done, mowing can thicken a lawn and make it more
weed-resistant. Like every other plant, its main purpose is to set
seed and reproduce. When you cut the lawn, you are interrupting
this process by cutting the seed heads, and the plant responds by
producing more plants asexually, by tillering. The result is a
thicker lawn, and with a thicker lawn the weeds seeds cannot
germinate and there is no room for them to grow. Cut your lawn at
a higher height instead of a lower height, and cut more frequently
than once a week.
Mowing heights (Here are the best mowing heights,
in inches, by species. The mower deck should be raised in hot
weather or shade, and lowered for the last mow of the year.)
Grass Type Cool Weather Hot Weather Last mow
Kentucky Blue 3 4 3 Fine Fescue 1 1/2 2 1/2 1 Tall Fescue 2 1/2 4
2 Perennial Rye 1 1/2 2 1/2 1
A quick mowing guide
You may need a ruler at first, but you will soon be
able to eyeball when your lawn needs to be cut. But until that
time, mark a wooden stake at the normal cutting height, then
another mark at 1/3. This way you can visually keep a check on
your lawn height and never cut too much off at onetime.
A rotary mower blade can spin as fast as 130 mph,
and can shatter the grass blades as much as cut them. This is why
you need a good, sharp blade. On a golf course, blades are
sharpened once a day. The homeowner should sharpen his blades once
a month. What size lawnmower should you have? It depends on the
size of your lawn. A 1 acre lawn mowed with an 18’ lawnmower would
make 171 swaths and hike the average of 6.9 miles behind it (two
hours 18minutes). A 21” mower would make 141 swaths and hike 5.7
miles in one hour and 54 minutes. The choice is up to you. Also
mow the lengths of the lawn to cut back on the time it takes to
turn the mower around.
Thatch
Misunderstood, maligned, thatch is though of just
like dandruff. They don’t know where it comes from but they know
it is bad. Lets disprove the common myths about thatch. 1). Thatch
is always bad in every shape and form - No one is ready to promote
thatch, but a little is not bad at all. It may even be beneficial.
As mentioned earlier, it returns nitrogen to the soil, and if less
than1/2 thick, it can act as a mulch to hold moisture and reduce
weeds. 2). Thatch is caused by grass clippings - Clippings are not
the main ingredient of thatch, because they start breaking down
and providing nitrogen within a week after cutting. Thatch is
mainly made up of roots, stolons, and rhizomes. These plant parts
are high in lignin, a fiber, which makes them slow to decompose.
Also, fertilizers, insecticides, herbicides and fungicides can
actually slow down the decomposition process. 3). Thatch can be
prevented by raking or bagging the clippings after mowing - As
stated above, thatch is made up of other materials than grass
clippings. Removal of grass clippings can actually slow down the
decomposition time by removing this quick decomposer.
How can you win the war of thatch? Worms are
excellent thatch busters as well as aerators. They prefer a lawn
free of chemicals and acid fertilizers, a pH of 6.25 to 7.5, and
moderate amounts of nitrogen. Also microorganisms help break down
thatch.
Bringing microorganisms back into your lawn
A commercial product called Ringer’s Lawn Restore
actually contains microorganisms and this product works well in
reducing thatch. Aerating your soil will help bring microorganisms
back. A compacted soil leaves too little oxygen for
microorganisms. There are bars that you can aerate your lawn with,
or a good pair of golf shoes will do just as well. Once you have
removed the thatch, keep up with cultural practices that keep
thatch out; fertilize sparingly, mow lightly and often, and take
care not to over water your lawn.
Water wisely
Try to picture 27,154 gallons of water, enough
water to fill a 6 foot deep pool that measures 20 feet by 30 feet.
A 1 acre plot of grass needs that much water in a thorough
watering. Even a moderate 5,000 square foot lawn will consume
6,000 gallons of water. Now before you start totaling your water
bill, there are a few things to consider. You don’t have to supply
all of that water with a hose and sprinkler. A good part of that
will be supplied through rain. If your soil has enough organic
matter in it, it will help store the moisture once it receives it
instead of puddling and running off (clay) or leaching through the
soil(sand). This number also changes in the summer. Lawns
naturally go into a dormancy period when extreme hot weather is
present, but we have been instilled with the notion that our lawn
must be green ALL season long instead of letting nature run its
course. A dormant lawn will resume normal growth when the stress
effecting it has subsided (either heat or cold). In many cases,
over watering can do more harm than good. Again we place more
emphasis on keeping up with the Jounces instead of doing what our
lawn wants us to do. The more water a lawn gets early on in the
season, the more water it will need later on. Continuous moisture
in the Spring will only create lazy roots that will not grow down
into the soil, but instead remain up at the surface. On the other
hand, to little watering may not be helpful at all. A sprinkler
left running 10 minutes in one spot will not have enough time to
soak the soil and the water will evaporate, not even getting to
the roots. The trick is to water in a way that encourages grass to
grow deep roots, generally 6 to 18 inches deep. Now some grasses
just won’t grow that deep, such as bentgrass, which has shallow
roots. Also keep in mind that root length is in direct
relationship with shoot height; you mow low, the roots remain
shallow. It is also important to keep in mind what kind of soil
you have. The soil will determine when you should water, and even
the type of sprinkler you should use. At full saturation, clay
soils hold up to 2 1/2” of moisture per foot of depth, and supply
turf for almost 2 1/2 weeks without any rain. Loam can hold 1 1/2”
of moisture per foot of depth, and sand can hold 3/4” of moisture.
You should not water until the reservoir is almost dry.
How much do I water?
Remember the statistics from above. If you apply
two inches of water, it would not be too much for a clay soil (2
1/2”), but for a sandy soil, which can only hold up to 3/4”, the
2” would be wasted. Infiltration rates (the amount of water that
can be absorbed in one hour) has to be kept in mind along with the
holding capacity. These two numbers will effect what sprinkler you
use and for how long. If you have a clay soil with a sprinkler
running at 1 inch per hour, only 0.1 inch will be absorbed and the
rest will be run-off. Not a good deal for you or your lawn. Flow
rates for sprinklers are normally printed on the side of the box
it came in. What if your sprinkler puts out more water per hour
than the soil can accept? Let’s say that your sprinkler puts out
0.6 inches per hour and you have a clay soil that will accept only
0.1 inches per hour. You should run the sprinkler 10 minutes on,
50 minutes off, and you won’t waste a drop. Infiltration rate of
water
Texture Inches/hour Sandy 1.0 Sandy loam 0.5 Loam
0.25 Clay loam 0.15 Clay 0.1
The key to watering is to make sure the lawn
receives 1” of water per week, including rainfall. It is that
simple. When watering, do not water after 3 p.m. in the afternoon.
Any moisture after this time can sit overnight and become a host
for disease. Make sure the lawn dries out thoroughly before
nightfall comes. Remember top water only when necessary, before
nightfall, and when you water, water thoroughly.
CHEMICAL-FREE WEED WARFARE
You can have a good looking, virtually weed free
lawn without the use of chemicals. You can have a good looking,
virtually weed free lawn without the use of chemicals. Now that I
have hypnotized you into believing this, you must understand the
laws of the lawn. 1). What is a weed? A weed is, terminology wise,
a plant that is out of place or in the wrong place. On a putting
green at a golf course, Kentucky Bluegrass would be a weed,
whereas on your home lawn, bentgrass is the weed. Society’s
perception of a weed has changed over the years. Clover was soft
to walk on, mows well, smothers other weeds as well as fixing
nitrogen from the air. It was sold by the tons and mixed into
lawns. It wasn’t until a company came along and said that clover
didn’t fit into a “modern” lawn did it fall from grace. By the
way, the company also sold a chemical that would kill the clover.
What about dandelions? Are they weeds? Not to the kid blowing
puffballs, or the old man making dandelion wine or the farmers in
Vineland, New Jersey. They grow dandelions in neat little rows for
their tasty greens that are sold up and down the east coast. On
those farms, turfgrass is the weed. The most important question
you can ask yourself is, “Can I stand a few weeds in my lawn?” As
my father always told me, weeds stay green all summer long and
your lawn looks green from the road, so they can’t be all that
bad. If you must remove the weeds, do so with cultural methods,
such as the dandelion fork. To keep future weeds out, the best
defense is a healthy, thick lawn. If the lawn is thick and
vigorous, there won’t be any room for the weeds to elbow their way
in. Keeping your lawn 1/2” higher in the summer will not only keep
the roots long, but will also shade out the newly emerging weeds.
If you have a weedy lawn, good grass care will eventually force
the weeds out, but this will take time. You can quicken this time
by doing the elbow grease of pulling, chopping and cutting the
weeds. This will not be as easy as spraying the lawn with
herbicides, but there are plenty of reasons to avoid using
chemicals. Chemicals are poisons, plain and simple. And as I have
stated earlier, chemicals can slow down the biological processes
that strengthen the grass plants, decompose thatch, and
discourages diseases. There are several bad management practices
that can lead to weeds; 1). You are growing the wrong type of
grass for the area. 2). Your soil is compacted 3). Heavy use 4).
Improper fertilization 5). Drought or improper watering habits 6).
Mowing too closely 7). You shouldn’t grow grass in that area.
The following pages include pictures of the weeds
you may encounter, and when to watch for them.
HOW TO BEAT CRABGRASS
How would you feel if I told you that you could
reduce the amount of crabgrass to nothing without work, chemicals
or weeding? The University of Rhode Island has showed that higher
mowing alone reduced crabgrass on their test plots to almost
nothing over a five year period. They also found out that the
non-chemical control worked better than the chemical control, even
though it took time. The second study was done over 50 years ago
by the Ohio Extension Service. It showed that a late season
fertilizer (November) got the grass growing earlier which in turn
crowded out the crabgrass. The third method is more drastic and
should only be used on severely populated crabgrass areas. Cover
the area with the black weed fabric that is available on the
market today for ten days. The crabgrass will be dead when the
fabric is removed, but the regular grass will be yellow and will
recoup by two weeks
GETTING THE BUGS OUT
Again, as with weeds, bugs very rarely trouble a
healthy lawn. The first step in natural insect control is learning
not to over-react and nuke the entire lawn for a half a dozen
bugs. The point is to attack only when they are actually doing
damage to your lawn in a widespread way. The second step is to
provide a habitat that is beneficial to grub eating birds and
beneficial insects. Birds just need a water source, cover, and
food during lean months to become your best friends and the bugs
worst enemy. Beneficial insects feed on the nectar from several
plants, including Queen Anne’s Lace, coriander, dill, fennel,
black-eyed Susan, sunflowers and yarrows. Now you don’t have to
plant these in your lawn...beneficial insects cover a 50 yard area
from these plants, so you can incorporate them into your landscape
plantings. I could have a seven night course just on bug problems
and how to identify them, but hopefully the cultural practice I
have told you will keep these critters away. Enclosed you will
find examples with the damage associated with each. Most garden
centers will have the “Ortho Problem Solver”, a great resource
when identifying the damage and insect. Use it...it’s free!
MORE IMPORTANTLY....DISEASE
You awake one morning to find that a patch of your
lawn has turned brown. By the time you get home from work, the
patch has doubled in size. The next day there are literally
hundreds of patches engulfing your lawn. What do you do? Grab a
fungicide? Make an emergency call to a lawn care company? Panic?
To most of us, lawn diseases are mysterious and since we know
little about them, they frighten us. Many factors can trigger a
disease outbreak in your lawn: poor cultural practices, too much
water, not enough water, too much fertilizer, not enough
fertilizer, inadequate lime, soil compaction, poor mowing habits,
and surprisingly enough, too many pesticides and chemicals. If you
do have a problem, good cultural practices can help eliminates the
diseases. In fact, a lawn that is pampered will be the first to
get a disease. Diseases are a sign that something is wrong with
your lawn. There is a triangle of plant pathology that is needed
for a disease to become a problem. 1). There is the disease agent
itself, and for a lawn it is a fungus. 2). There is a host plant
that is susceptible to the disease. 3). Conditions must favor the
development of the disease.
If any of these “legs” are not present, the disease
cannot occur. We will now look at each leg and how to break the
triangle to prevent a disease infestation.
Disease Agents
All major turf diseases are caused by fungi, and
these fungi are always present in our lawns. The chemical approach
would be to nuke the fungus, but the fungus will never disappear.
There are about 100 different disease causing fungus, and in a
normal lawn you will find at least 5 if not more. In a healthy
lawn, the disease pathogens are outnumbered by the nonpathogenic
microfauna and microflora (amoebas, nematodes, insects, bacteria,
actinomycetes, and fungi) that the good will out compete the bad
for food. This means they have the upper hand and keep the disease
causing organisms in check. Stress, caused by poor cultural
habits, can give the disease organisms an upper hand and they will
run rampant. In time if the stress is reduced, the soil will
reestablish the equilibrium and the disease will disappear. The
common approach today is to grab the fungicide and knock it back
quickly. This may work for the short term, but in the long term
you may make the problem worse. The fungicide will not only kill
the bad, but also the good fungus. The results can be further
outbreaks of diseases. If you continue to use fungicides, the
fungus will become resistant to the fungicide and it will continue
to spread. There have been studies that show turfgrass diseases
have been made worse from fungicides than better. Rusts, leaf
spot, red thread, typhia and pythium all have been made worse from
an application of benomyl. On the other hand, Michigan State
University researchers have found that commercial organic
fertilizers could help lawns and also reduce thatch, which is a
major contributor to the disease cycle. As strange as this may
sound, if you can find a liquid seaweed extract to apply with a
hose end sprayer, there is a hormone in seaweed that naturally
prevents diseases, and also fertilizes as well.
Grass Hosts
With the newer, more disease resistant varieties of
grasses on the market today, lawn turf isn’t a gracious host to
diseases as it once was. All told, there are over 200 varieties of
grasses that are resistant to one or more diseases. Remember, the
first step is to plant the right grass in the right place. A grass
that is in the wrong local will be stressed and susceptible to
attack.
Conditions
The third leg of the disease triangle is the
conditions that favor the growth of the fungus. You are limited to
the things you can changes, which are few and far between. Mostly
you can’t change humidity or stop the rain, but you can make sure
your lawn is the healthiest and most resistant when those
conditions are favorable. The more maintenance spent on a lawn
usually means the more susceptible it is. There are several
reasons for this. 1). Excessive nitrogen force the grass plant to
grow too quickly, making it easy for certain diseases to strike.
Overfertilizing also discourages earthworms and other
microorganisms, which in turn increases thatch and the diseases
that harbor there. 2). Acid fertilizers, such as ammonium sulfate,
found in most common fertilizers, favor the fungi in the soil
while discouraging bacteria and actinomycetes, both fungus
fighters. 3). Excessive watering a foliar feeding soften the roots
system. They are not strong, healthy and deep. 4). Lawn herbicides
actually increases rusts and fusarium disease in you lawn. 5).
Frequent low mowing stresses the grass plants and makes them
susceptible to disease.
How to be a disease detective
To diagnose a disease or to get help from your
local Garden Center, you’ll have to be able to answer these
questions.
1). What species of grass is affected? 2). When did
the problem first appear? 3). What were the temperature in the day
and night when it first appeared? 4). Has the weather been
exceptionally wet or dry? 5). What were the first symptoms? 6).
Has the symptoms changed? 7). Has the affected area grown larger
or changed shape? 8). Do the grass leaves show lesions, stripes or
patterns? 9). Was the lawn watered recently? 10). Is the area sun
or shade? 11). Has anything spilled in the area?
The following list is here to help you diagnose
your lawn problem. Always consult a professional if you are
undecided.
Diseases by Seasons
Spring; Necrotic leaf spot, pink patch, red thread
Early Summer; Brown patch, fusarium blight, stripe smut Late
Summer; Brown patch, dollar spot, powdery mildew, pythium, rusts,
stripe smut Fall; Fusarium patch, necrotic ring spot, pink patch,
red thread
Preferred Conditions for Disease
Cool Weather (below 60 degrees); fusarium patch,
powdery mildew, red thread, slime mold, smuts, drechslera leaf
spot Warm Weather (60 to 80 degrees); dollar spot, necrotic leaf
spot, red thread Hot Weather (80 degrees +); brown patch, fusarium
blight, pythium, rusts Dry Weather; dollar spot, drechslera leaf
spot, melting out, red thread, rusts Wet Weather; brown patch (hot
and humid), fairy ring, leaf spot, melting out (cool), pythium,
red thread, slime mold, stripe smut High Nitrogen Levels; brown
patch, drechslera, fusarium blight, fusarium patch, powdery
mildew, pythium Low pH; dollar spot, stripe smut Shade; powdery
mildew, pythium Low Mowing; drechslera, fusarium blight, necrotic
ring spot Thatch; Fusarium blight, fusarium patch, leaf spot,
slime mold, stripe smut
Disease Pattern Shapes Circle; brown patch, snow
mold Irregular; pythium, slime mold Patch; red thread Ring; fairy
ring Spot; dollar spot, fusarium blight, necrotic ring spot,
stripe smut Unpatterned; drechslera, powdery mildew, rusts
Disease Color
Green; fairy ring Pale Green; fusarium blight,
smuts Pink; red thread Red; drechslera Red to Tan; fusarium
blight, rusts Tan; brown patch, dollar spot, drechslera, fusarium
patch White; powdery mildew White and Black; Slime mold Yellow;
fusarium patch
When all else fails.....groundcovers and mulches
Sometimes it is near impossible to coax a lawn to
grow. Maybe the area is too wet, too dry, too shady or too root
engulfed by a local tree. If the previous tips just don’t work,
try a groundcover, mulch or both. Here is a list o9f some of the
more popular groundcover plants and their attributes. Bugleweed -
Ajuga reptans - It is a 6” plant which spreads quickly by its
roots and also produces a nice blue flower in a spike. It
tolerates both sunny and shady conditions. Candytuft - Iberis
sempervirens - This 8” evergreen is popular because of its
clusters of white flowers in May and June. It spreads slowly by
above ground runners and grows in sun or shade. Common Violet -
Viola sororial - This 5 - 8” plant grows in sun or shade and is
considered a nuisance in your lawn. It spreads rather quickly be
seeds and of course, produce nice flowers. Creeping lilyturf -
Liriope spicata - This evergreen has lavender, bell-shaped flowers
on spikes up to 15” tall. Liriope tolerates sun or shade, heat,
salt, drought and poor soil. English Ivy - Hedera helix - A
creeping groundcover that will climb quite easily. It forms a
thick (9”), fast spreading evergreen mat. Ivy roots rapidly as it
spread, so it is useful on slopes. Lily-of-the-Valley -
Convallaria majalis - You need a well-drained soil for this fast
spreading, 6” tall plant. Each may - June it produces wonderfully
scented flowers. It grows in sun or shade, but dies back each
Fall. Myrtle or periwinkle - Vinca minor - This 4 - 9” plant is
evergreen and covered in late Spring with light violet blue
flowers. It will prevent soil erosion once established and can
grow in sun or shade. Pachysandra - Pachysandra terminallis - This
is an 8” evergreen with dark, glossy leaves. It will grow in sun
or shade, but prefers a moist, loose soil. It spreads slowly, but
if you cut it back, it will accelerate the growth and thicken it
up. Can be invasive once established. Sedum - Sedum sp. - There
are many varieties of sedum, most notably ‘Autumn Joy’. It has
fleshy, swollen leaves, common for survivors of hot, dry areas.
AREA COVERED BY 100 PLANTS AT THE GIVEN SPACING
planting distance in inches SQ.FT. covered by 100 plants 4 11 6 25
8 44 10 70 12 100 15 156 18 225 24 400 36 900 48 1600
Tips for a Healthy Lawn in a Nutshell
1). Makes sure the water drains properly through
your lawn. Improve drainage if necessary.
2). Trim and/or remove trees and shrubs to increase
air flow and sunlight.
3). Add organic matter!
4). Test your soil for fertility and pH. Make
adjustments as needed.
5). Check for thatch, soil compaction. Thoroughly
rake and aerate to improve.
6). Establish and stick to a fertilizer schedule.
7). Stop using chemicals!
8). Choose the right grass seed for your specific
location.
9). Mow when the grass needs it, and mow at a
reasonable height.
10). Water thoroughly and only when needed, never
after 3:00 p.m.
11). Remove weeds.
12). Check your lawn regularly for disease and
insect problems.
Source: The
Gardening Guru
David Daehnke
Mahwah, New Jersey 07430
http://gardeningguru.tripod.com
gardeningguru@juno.com
Here to help the
experienced as well as the novice gardener. |
